Why Won’t My Cat Use the Litter Box? Solving Litter Box Problems

For cat parents, few things are more frustrating than your kitty refusing to use their seemingly perfect litter-box setup. Seriously, what gives? There are several reasons a cat might avoid their litter box, and identifying them is key to effective solutions. Sadly, litter-box issues are one of the most common reasons cats are surrendered to shelters. But it doesn’t have to be that way. Here, we break down the common reasons for litter-box aversion, and share steps for resolving this challenge.

Prompt veterinary attention is crucial to rule out and treat any underlying medical conditions, while changes to the cat’s environment may be required if behavioral factors are at play. Additionally, ensuring the cleanliness and suitability of the litter box itself plays a key role in encouraging consistent use.

Why won’t my cat use the litter box? 

It’s not uncommon for newly adopted cats to exhibit reluctance when it comes to using the litter box but this behavioral change can happen to any cat. Why might this be? Here are the top six reasons your cat won’t use their litter box. 

1. They have a medical issue

One of the most common reasons for a sudden change in litter-box behavior is an underlying medical problem. “UTIs, crystals in the urine (and potential blockages), cystitis (inflamed bladder from stress or other causes), constipation, and diarrhea all cause discomfort. And that discomfort is frequently associated with the litter box,” says Stephen Quandt, a certified cat behaviorist and founder of Stephen Quandt Feline Behavior Associates, LLC. “So the cat goes outside the box to find a place that doesn’t cause pain or distress.”

Alternatively, your cat may have undergone physical changes that make their current litter-box setup unsuitable. “Maybe your cat is now a senior, possibly a bit arthritic, and your only litter box is in the basement,” Quandt says. “It’s harder for them to negotiate all those steps.”

2. They have a history of not using a litter box

“By far, the number one reason why a recently adopted cat won’t use the litter box — partly or not at all, with respect to urination, defecation, or both — is a history of going outside the box in the previous home,” Quandt says.

Quandt estimates this accounts for more than 90 percent of the cats who pee or poop outside the litter box upon arriving in a new home. This might occur if your newly adopted cat had negative experiences with litter boxes in the past, such as associating them with punishment or discomfort.

3. They are dissatisfied with the litter box

Cats can be picky about their litter box preferences, including the type of litter used and the size and style of the box itself. Quandt points out that your cat may be accustomed to a different type of litter or litter box, leading to an aversion toward the provided options.

4. They have stress and anxiety

Cats are sensitive creatures, and changes in their environment or routine can trigger stress or anxiety, leading to litter-box problems. Transitioning to a new environment can be very overwhelming for cats, often leading to feelings of stress and anxiety. These emotions can manifest in various ways, including peeing and pooping in inappropriate places. Stress-induced inflammation of the bladder can further exacerbate the problem.

According to Quandt, common events that can disrupt a cat’s sense of security and stability include:

• Moving to a new home

• The addition of a new pet or family member

• Your absence due to travel

• Changes in household dynamics

• Rearranging furniture

• Loud noises, like construction inside or outside the house

5. They’re living in multi-cat homes

In households with multiple cats, litter-box aversion can stem from territorial issues or competition for resources. Your newly adopted cat may feel intimidated or threatened by the presence of other cats, leading to avoidance of the litter box. 

6. They have different litter box preferences

Did your cat stop using their box after you changed the litter type, box style (ie, uncovered to covered), box size, or box placement? This could be their way of expressing their displeasure. Slacking on scooping and cleaning the boxes can also prompt your cat to seek out cleaner spots to do their business. 

How to get your cat to use the litter box

Having a cat that isn’t using their litter box is extremely frustrating (and messy). It’s important to remain calm and avoid punishing your cat, as this can exacerbate the problem. Instead, focus on troubleshooting the issue using the steps below. 

Step 1: Clean up

Cat urine is one of the most difficult smells to remove. To add to the challenge, cats have an extraordinary sense of smell and may continue to pee in the same spot if they can smell their prior mess. That’s why removing the urine odor from inappropriate areas is a crucial first step.

Get a black light to scan your house for urine stains. Wash any items your cat peed or pooped on in the washing machine with detergent and an enzymatic pet cleaner. Hang to dry. If your cat peed on more permanent items, like carpet or your front door itself, thoroughly clean the entire area with an enzymatic pet cleaner. 

Step 2. Provide a brand-new box

The easiest thing you can try is putting a brand new litter box (that’s uncovered and as big as possible), filled with all-new litter, as close as possible to where your cat was most frequently peeing or pooping inappropriately. This might be in your closet, on the couch, under a window, in a doorway, etc. Monitor your cat’s behavior for one full day.

Did that stop them from going outside the box? Great! Keep the new box there for one week. If you can keep the litter box in the new location permanently, your outside-the-box problem may be solved.

If you don’t want to keep the new litter box in that location, gradually — just one foot a day — move it to where you want it. If your cat’s litter-box avoidance resumes, move it back and try moving it again in slower, smaller increments.

Step 3: Rule out medical causes 

If providing a brand-new box didn’t fix the problem in one day, take your cat to a veterinarian ASAP to rule out any medical causes. Often, cats will stop using their box if they experience pain while peeing or pooping, since they associate the box with discomfort. Here are the steps most vets will recommend:

1. A urinalysis to check for infection

2. A urine culture to check for elevated bacteria

3. A blood panel or other tests to check for other illnesses

4. Feline Prozac or Buspar to relieve anxiety-driven litter-box issues

Step 4: Experiment with litter-box preferences 

After your vet has ruled out obvious medical causes — and while you’re waiting for the urine culture to come back — you can start the process of figuring out if any other changes (such as type or depth of litter, cleanliness, or box style) will help. Don’t underestimate a cat’s pickiness. 

Below, Quandt shares a checklist of things to address. But don’t try these all at once. Make one change, then wait two to three days. Add on the next option if the previous step didn’t solve the problem. If you find a good combo, keep it up.

1. Number of boxes: In nature, cats will do their business in different places. It’s a survival tactic to make it harder for predators to track them. This is why providing your cat with enough litter boxes is essential. Make sure you have one litter box per cat, plus one extra (ie two boxes for one cat, three boxes for two cats, etc.).

2. Cleanliness: Keep all boxes obsessively clean. You should be scooping at least twice daily, but do this more often in a multi-cat household.

3. Style and size: Most cats don’t like covered boxes. It makes it hard for them to scan for predators, as they would in nature. If you use covered boxes, switch to uncovered boxes that are as big and low as possible.  

4. Litter type: Fill the boxes with a different type of litter, and make sure it’s unscented.

5. Litter depth: Try changing how much litter you put in the boxes. If you previously had just a thin layer, try making it deeper, and vice versa.

6. Location: Put six new, disposable cardboard litter boxes in different locations around your home. This is a temporary test to see if something in the other locations was deterring them. If your cat starts using one or more of the disposable boxes, replace the disposable box with a new permanent box. Note: If your cat is elderly or has trouble getting around, avoid placing boxes in places where they’ll have difficulty accessing them, such as up or down a lot of stairs. 

Step 5: Mitigate stress

Stress and anxiety are common reasons cats relieve themselves outside their litter box. Your cat could be upset over a change in their routine, by someone or something new in the house, or any number of things, big or small. Whatever the cause, try these strategies: 

1. Try to identify the stressor: If you can determine what the stressor is, Quandt suggests reducing or eliminating it, if possible. For example, if you brought a new cat into your home without doing a proper introduction process, go back to square one and follow proper introduction instructions. If you moved your furniture around, gradually move it back to its original location. 

2. Use Rescue Remedy: This stress relief tincture for pets is made with natural flower essences. Give your cat a few drops orally, or put the drops on their paw, so they’ll lick it off. The calming effects are immediate (if it works for your cat). 

3. Put Feliway plug-ins in every room: These plug-ins emit synthetic pheromones that mimic the calming facial pheromones produced by cats. This isn’t a cheap option, but it’s often effective. 

4. Ask your vet about kitty Prozac or Buspar: These medications can reduce anxiety, which can cause (or worsen) litter-box problems. 

Step 6: Consider territory

Does your cat mostly (or completely) pee on doors leading outside, on rugs by the doors, or under windows? If so, this is likely territorial marking driven by anxiety, caused by outside cats or other animals. Try blocking off locations where your cat can see, hear, or smell other cats or other animals outside. It can also help to play with your cat at least twice daily for 10-15 minutes to burn off anxious energy. 

Commonly asked questions

Can cats share a litter box? 

Yes, cats can share a litter box, but it’s recommended that you have one litter box per cat, plus one extra to avoid potential territorial issues. This will also ensure each cat has enough space and clean litter for their needs.

Are there litter box alternatives? 

Litter boxes are certainly an accepted standard, and it’s best if you can use them. But possible alternatives include puppy pads, artificial or real grass, and soil patches. You can also try using non-clay litter made from wood, grass, walnut shells, or corn. 

How can you stop a cat from spraying? 

Addressing spraying behavior involves strategies like spaying or neutering, thoroughly cleaning sprayed areas, providing enough litter boxes, reducing stressors, and using synthetic pheromone products. Consult with a veterinarian or cat behaviorist for further guidance, if needed.

How to prepare litter boxes for your new cat? 

Litter boxes are one of many items you should buy and set up before bringing your new cat home. Make sure you have one litter box per cat, plus one extra. Add two to three inches of litter per box and set them up in quiet, low-traffic areas in your home. 

For more information on preparing for your new cat, check out our new cat checklist and guide on making your home cat-friendly. 

References

Field assessment of cats’ litter box substrate preferences

How to help your cat(s) use the litter box

Litter Box Preference in Domestic Cats: Covered Versus Uncovered

Litter Box Problems

Litterbox Size Preference in Domestic Cats